Rorotonga,Cook Islands- Sept, 2003 click photos to enlarge

After 4 months island hopping in the Society Islands, French Polynesia we set sail for Rarotonga, only 511 miles. Our estimated time of arrival- 5 days- 9/14. We had 3 days of perfect downwind sailing, a slow, waning moon and smooth seas.We even barbequed steaks out in the cockpit while underway. it was delightful. We had been flying the large spinnaker sail for 2 days. On the 3rd day while setting the spinnaker for a  jibe onto a starboard tack Richard forgot to tie down the dousing line of the sock. While raising the sail with the halyard, the sock began to rise with it. With the sock not doing its job and containing the large sail, the spinnaker began to fill with no sock to douse it. When the halyard began to slip Richard's first reaction was to hold tighter so the entire sail wouldn't fall into the water. The power of the wind in that sail lifted  him right off the deck, and before he knew it he was half way up the mast and still rising. He had no alternative but to slide down the rope to return his feet to the deck. In the process he stripped most of the skin off his fingers and palms. By this time Kelly had rushed up to the deck to help tie down the halyard and hoist the part of the sail that did end up in the water. We had quick enough reactions to get the sail up to the deck before the entire thing was filled with water and impossible to lift, but in the process, the pain of the salt water on Richard's hands was excruciating to say the least. In the next 2 days Kelly did all the sail and line handling while Richard kept his hands moist with neosporin and covered with bandages.

"Gracie" safely anchored in Avatiu Harbor

We pulled into Avatiu harbor in Rarotonga on the 14th of Sept. and had to anchor with a stern tie to the land. Not always an easy, smooth procedure even with two capable people with two sets of hands. But with Richard giving directions as Kelly struggled with tying off lines and throwing them to a very helpful Brian on the yacht, "Glide" we managed to get "Gracie" safely and securely anchored in the harbor. While in the process of anchoring we hear an unmistakable bellow from the other side of the harbor shouting, "RICHARD". It turned out to be our friend, Randie and his wife, Shawn from Kona. They were on a cruise ship cruising the Society Islands and Rarotonga for two weeks. Although they had only one day in Raro it happened to be the day we pulled in. Still, it was fun to see some old friends from Kona and have a little time to visit. As in the great words of Disney, "it's a small world after all".

Rich and Kelly at the helm of the "Picton Castle"

Our young friend Gina on "Glide"

We spent the next two weeks convalescing in Rarotonga. Because Richard could not use his hands and they needed to be kept dry, we didn't do any water activities or any strenuous biking or hiking. We did, however, explore the island in a hired car and were fortunate that there was a terrific little town, Avarua, right there close to the harbor. We went to some delicious restaurants, fun waterfront bars, and partied with some new cruisers that we met on the yachts, Glide, Aurora, and Firebird.

A young Rarotongan dancer

We found Rarotonga to be delightful with a strong New Zealand influence. Avatiu harbor was a sufficient harbor but small for the growing yacht traffic combined with the local fishing fleet and weekly cargo ships that use it. The harbor master, John, a very nice Kiwi was extremely helpful from the beginning and gave all the yachts plenty of warning when we had to raise anchor and stand off while the cargo ship maneuvered to pull off the dock and turn around to get out of the harbor. An experience unique to a small, South Pacific island.

Standing off for ship turn around

We had been reading about a Kiwi named Don Silk, former harnor master at Avatiu who was instrumental in starting inter-island shipping in the Cook Islands in the 50's and 60's. We found his book, "From Kauri trees to Sunlit Seas- shoestring shipping in the South Pacific",  for sale in the harbor office and managed to convince John to get Don to come over and sign it for us. What a charming and interesting guy and we consider ourselves lucky to have met him.

Rich with Don Silk

We also had a great opportunity to take a tour of an old ship converted into a tall, square rigged barque, "Picton Castle", as it was in port at the harbor for a couple of weeks. They are sailing around the world with a crew of 50 people, a good bit of whom are paying for the experience.

Fishing Fleet

We took time to visit Rarotonga, only one of the many Cook Islands, but with this lovely experience we hope one day to return to visit others. Until then we will continue to build the Amazing Grace Anthology.

Picton Castle Crew

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Picton Castle under way